Las Caletas was John Huston's retreat, tucked into the coast between Yelapa and Quimixto. There is still no road to it. You cross the bay by catamaran at the end of the afternoon, and you arrive to a cove lit by candles and lanterns.
The evening is built around ALMA, an open-air production staged in a jungle amphitheatre. Dinner comes first, the show follows, and the boat back across the water is part of the night rather than an afterthought.
The crossing
The catamaran leaves in the late afternoon and takes you out across Banderas Bay as the light drops. Check-in is 45 minutes before departure.
Between December and March the crossing runs through whale water, and humpbacks are regularly seen on the way over. It is not guaranteed and it is not the point of the trip, but it happens often enough to be worth watching for.
Las Caletas
The cove is reached only from the sea. Paths are lit by candle and lantern, the jungle presses in on all sides, and the amphitheatre is open to the sky.
It is uneven ground in places and the walking is on sand and path rather than pavement, which is why heels are a poor idea and why the evening is not recommended for guests with limited mobility.
Dinner and the show
Every ticket covers the sunset crossing, a gourmet dinner with wine and drinks, the ALMA production, and the return trip with entertainment on board.
Classic, VIP and Premier tiers differ in seating and service rather than in whether you see the show.
Common questions
How long is Rhythms of the Night?
About five hours in total, covering the crossing, dinner, the show and the trip back.
How much does it cost?
From US$90 for Classic, US$118 for VIP and US$160 for Premier, plus an access fee of US$20 per adult and US$10 per child collected at check-in.
Can children go?
Yes, from age 6.
Can you see whales on the way?
Between roughly December and March the crossing passes through whale water and humpbacks are often seen, though sightings are never guaranteed.
What should I wear?
Comfortable flat shoes — the paths are sand and uneven ground, so heels and wedges are a bad idea. A light layer helps in winter.